18K Platinum Diamond Sapphire Mystery-Set Bombe Ring

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.
• Origin: America, ca. 1990.
• Condition: excellent.
• Finger Size: 7.
• Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown.
• Weight: 17.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

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